How I made Trinket

Some people have been asking me how I made 'Trinket' so I added this lovely little part to our webpage. Trinket is a short stop-motion film, more specifically a claymation film. I am not going to explain the whole stop-motion proses, two good site to get info on stop-motion are Animate Clay and Brick Films.

Puppits

The first thing I started with was the puppets. The puppets I used for Trinket were about third generation puppets for me. It took a bit of experimenting to get puppets that could be animated well during the two months of filming that Trinket took.

One the the first things I did on the puppets was to buy clay. When you make a claymation film you can't just go get a tub of Playdough, you need high quality clay. In the US Van Aken is the standard and that was what I used. Van Aken is, "a pigmented oil base modeling compound renowned for its smooth consistency and brilliant color range. It is self adhering, non-toxic, never hardens, permanently pliable." ...yada, yada ya... I got mine at Mister Art because no local craft shops stocked it. It is about $2.66 a pound and only available in North America. (in other countries they use NewPlast or something) Van Aken clay looks like this:



The first thing I made on the puppets were the faces. The eyes are not glass or anything like that, glass get foggy over time because it is a liquid and absorbs the color of the clay around it,they are these berring things Marc Spess sells at the Animate Clay 'How to Store'. In order to animate them I heated a pen with a lighter and melted a whole in them, then I colored a black pupil with a Sharpie. You can paint the eyes if you want more then just a black pupil, but as this was my first claymation I was trying to keep it simple. So that the clay would not stick the eyes I lubricated the sockets with Vaseline. The eyes look like this:



The frame was made with aluminum wire twisted together using a clamp and drill driver. While copper wire could work it is very stiff and you could damage your puppet while you animated it, steel wire is bad because it has memory and will spring back to its old position. I also got the wire at the 'How to Store' @ Animate Clay. I then used some size diagrams my brother made me so the proportions would be right on the puppets (my legs are a bit shorter then they should be for a person of my height and it has a way of showing up in stuff I make) I fastened the arms legs and torso together using epoxy, I also created bones so that the puppets could only bend in the right spots. I originally had fastened the armature together using hot glue with dowels as bones but that was awful. The wire looks like this:



I then made these little wooden 'clogs', I called them. The had a very small hole in the back which I stuck the aluminum legs in and super glued them in. I had a larger hole in the front which was used for the tiedown system. Normally when animators have a tiedown system it is pretty fancy, using nuts in the feet which you screw bolts with wing nuts though the set floor, however my tiedown system was a friction based system using quarter inch dowels that went into a duel layer pegboard about half an inch apart (so the dowels would not wiggle) and then went into the holes in the clogs on the feet.



I then put clay on top of the armatures and that was that. The tiedown system with the aluminum wire armature was strong enough for 9.5 inch puppets to stand on one foot for quite some time.

Set



This was the set for Trinket. It was on a workbench hight table so I could do all my animation standing up. The workbench was made of some old hollow core doors. For shots where the cameras needed to be placed adjacent the door and window I had a piece of board that I would screw onto the table, I had to do this because the camera I was using was a web camera. In future films I will be using a digital SLR and a tripod, so the add-on will be unnecessary.

The base of the set was made with two 2x4 feet sheets of pegboard, I got it at a local hardware store. I separated the two sheets with half inch pieces of wood as you can see pictured above. This was for the tie down system I talked about in the latter part of the puppet section.

All of the shelving was made with some thin sheets of wood, while the counter and the table with toys on it were made with laminated board.

I made a window and a Plexiglas door in the shop to make it seem like there was a living world outside. I used grey paper to cover the pegboard to make an illusion of a sidewalk or something.



Of course if I have window and glass door I need to put something behind it. So I made a shop across the street. For how unclear the shop can be seen through the window I put way to much work into it. It was made half the scale of the puppets.



I used double corrugated cardboard and covered it with a mixture of Elmer's glue and Fix-it-All which is some kind of dry wall filler or something, you can get it at a local hardware store. I applied it with a brush to give it a stucco texture, which never shows up in the movie, the rain shield is made of real cloth using aluminum wire as the frame.



The walls of the shop are not permanent, I cut them to size and then hot glued dowels on the back of them so they could stick into the pegboard, and be removable if I needed to shoot through that wall. On the tops of the wall I used tacks to make the tops of the walls would touch in the corers.



Everything in the shop that was painted was painted with a flat white paint, while inside walls are normally painted with a semi-gloss, I went with flat because the slightest gloss will glow vibrantly in the camera due to lighting and whatever goes on inside cameras. The only flat paint I found was intended for outdoor use (20 year warranty) and cost a bit more then indoor paints. Sometimes you can notice the clerks shirt glowing in Trinket, if I were you I would dull white clay so that it will not do this as badly.



All the toys were borrowed from friends or purchased off Ebay. As I did not have enough toys to fill the whole shop I made little paper boxes. I used some pattern I leaned in a high school art class and it may have been more trouble then it was worth.



Now I did alot of animation around the counter so I needed it to not bounce around during animation. I glued it to two the the floor boards that it was on. In one shot, I was removing the table every frame so I could get at the clerk and putting in back down in it's holes and you could not even see it jigle.



Lighting

Trinket was lit with five lamps. In order to get full control over the lighting I put paper over top the window that was in the room and then hung towels over that. That way the rising and setting of the sun would not change the sets lighting, I also did not use the rooms lights as they are very difficult to change if need be.



I used the three arm lamps I had to light the inside of the shop, I had two 60 watt GE Reveal bulbs for fill lighting and one 15 watt spot bulb to light the puppets.

  


Having made a shop with two windows I needed to light the outdoors and the opposing shop. Fortunately I had an overcast outdoors that did not need tons of lighting, I found the best way to light was to have a low wattage bulb reflecting on the shop on the other side of the street. I used some sort vanity bulb and reflected it using aluminum foil.



If the interior of the shop at the other side of the street was not lit, it would be hard to tell that there was a shop there at all, and people who had noticed would wonder why it was not open. So I used a 10 watt bulb inside it standing on a clear lid from the top of a pack of blank CDs.



Audio

When you make a claymation you do not animate and then add voice, you get the audio track you want and then animate the shots. So as you can imagine Robert had to write the scrip, I then storyboarded the whole script before I had Greg and Emily do any acting. This helped me while they recorded to better understand when they need to pause for select actions I would have to animate. I recorded at Ben's house using his sound board (it is worth more then my computer) and his mics. We used a high quality 1/4 inch double male cord to output what was going into his sound board out to my computer. I used the Live Drive on my Creative Labs 5.1 Pro sound card to do this, the result, crystal clear audio (not so clear on the 6.7 MB version of Trinket).



Animation

I used Magpie to figure out what shaps the mouth had to be in at what frame and Anasazi Stop Motion Animator to capture the frames with my Quick Cam Pro Zoom.